Comfort or style? Who says we have to sacrifice one for the other when buying office-appropriate shoes?

To get you started on your search, here are some shoe designers and stores that have interesting designs and/or a wide selection of kitten and other low-heeled shoes.  Ms. Incognita’s approach here is to provide some resources that may be new to you. You probably have your own tried-and-true resources, but if you’re looking for both style and comfort, you can expand your options by also  branching out periodically.

Designers

• Butter:  This line is a new find for Ms. Incognita. Its designers profess to be dedicated to timeless shoes with perfect fit that can be re-imagined every season. The line has very type of heel height, but those in the lower ranges have a nice slightly retro vibe, like something Audrey Hepburn might wear. Here’s an example in a beige-y mauve with black trim.

SheShe in Mauve by Butter $298

• Bettye Muller: Another designer who makes shoes with a slight retro feel, not surprising given that she collects vintage shoes. Her Tartan Rita design is the picture used on the main page to illustrate this article. Here’s an example of a wing-tip wedge that would pair well with many black outfits.

Novel in Black and Cream by Bettye Muller $298

• Lillybee:  This designer understands the style/comfort dilemma completely, creating shoes that she says will take women “from the boardroom to the romper room”.  She’s the owner of the shoe boutique Simply Soles in Washington, DC and her designs can only be purchased there or at the online store (see below).  It can be difficult to find an interesting and versatile shoe in navy, but check out this low-heeled option.

Ina in Navy by Lillybee $148

Stores

• Talbots: What? Safe and boring Talbot?!  It’s true—Talbots seems to be doing a better job this season of straddling those difficult lines between style and suitability and between cost and quality. Case in point is its shoe collection which has a very nice selection of kitten heels in croc and other stamped leathers. You can see them at your local Talbots or check them out at www.talbots.com. Here’s a croc-embossed version that also comes in variety of colors, including a lovely wine version.

Croc kitten-heel pump by Talbots $129

• Zappos.com and Endless.com: Both of these are online stores that offer incredible selection of shoes together with excellent service.  Simply do a search on your desired heel height and color, and you’ll be amazed at the breadth of the selection. If you have yet to try out Zappo’s, you really should do so soon.  It continues to be one of the highest rated online buying experiences for any product—reviews of shoes that enable you to determine fit and comfort; free, fast delivery and returns; and an impressive focus on customer satisfaction.

Ms. Incognita is not as familiar with Endless, but the site was created by Amazon and offers benefits similar to Zappo’s, including free, fast delivery and returns. Endless also carries several shoe lines (like Butter) that Zappo’s does not.

New to Internet shopping for clothes and shoes?  If you’re as pressed for time as other executive women, it can be a real life-saver.  See Ms. Incognita’s previous post Want To Score Some Fashion Steals? for tips on how to leverage this resource effectively.

• Simply Soles:  For those readers in the DC area, check out this boutique with locations in Georgetown and Oxon Hill. The owner (a former CPA) has a great eye for interesting shoe designers, and designs her own line (Lillybee) as well. For those not in the DC area, Simply Soles sells online at www.simplysoles.com.  As is true of the larger online stores, customers give Simply Soles high marks for convenience and reliability.

The statement watch–the watch that signals to others that you are invested with authority and rank in an organization….or that you are ready to play such a role.

In Part 1 of our series (Reasons and Style),  Ms. Incognita wrote about some of the things you might want to think through before starting the purchase process.  This week we get down to the nitty-gritty— (1) different budget levels and good brands at each level and (2) your choices as to where you go to buy your watch.

Budget and Brands

The budget ranges provided below are meant to be helpful guidelines, not hard and fast rules. In other words, sometimes you can spend a little less in each category, particularly if you seek out some of the cost-effective ways of buying a watch that Ms. Incognita describes later in this article. Likewise, sometimes you will need to spend a little more in a certain category, particularly if you are buying a brand-new watch straight from the watchmaker or an authorized dealer.

In general, the budget ranges in each category are the least you should expect to spend for a statement watch if you fall into that category. If you happen to work in a highly-compensated field or if you are highly ambitious and want to signal your readiness to jump into the next tier, you should consider going up into the next budget level.

The only reasons for buying at a budget level below your category are (1) you already have a statement watch and you are simply filling out your watch wardrobe, (2) you are in senior management but in a smaller or quite casual company where a prestige watch might look overdone, or (3) you truly are uninterested in the boost a statement watch can provide your professional image.

If you fall into that last camp, however, do at least challenge yourself on your reasons for this. Ms. Incognita has noticed in working with a wide range of senior leaders over many professions and industries that women executives sometimes will put themselves last in a way that male executives seldom do.  The cumulative effect of this over time can result in a career image that leads others to put you last, and of course you don’t want that.  So if you are resisting spending money on yourself in certain areas, ask yourself whether the expense you are avoiding is merely an unnecessary cost or is possibly a worthwhile investment. An investment that might ease your way in your career should always be carefully considered and may end being repaid in full or more over time.

Not yet in senior management but expecting to get there

Budget: $150 – 500

What you should look for:

• Simple designs that demonstrate taste and class
• Subdued metallics. Overly shiny metals in this price range tend to look cheap.
• Nothing too oversized or ornate
• Nothing too small or dainty. Overly feminine watches in this price range run the risk of looking like cheap costume jewelry.
• Avoid department stores, and consider the internet or watch brand stores.  Generally the selection will be much broader there, and you are more likely to find the classic designs in a brand that the department store considers too boring.

What you’ll get:

• You won’t reap the benefit of a true statement watch at this price level, unless perhaps if you buy a replica of a better-known and more expensive model. (See the section on replica watches below.) However, your goal in this category is to mirror the tasteful design of a classic statement watch.

Some brands to consider:

• Skagen
• Timex
• Seiko
• Michael Kors

Michael Kors Horn-Bezel Watch $195

On the verge of entering senior management

Budget: $500 – 2,500

What you should look for:

• See previous category.

What you’ll get in this range (assuming you do your homework and stick to respected brands and models):

• Good durability
• Stainless steel or gold color or plate (usually not solid gold)
• Inexpensive repairs and changes (such as a new watch band)
• Little resale value
• Moderate statement value from easily recognized designs like Movado’s Museum watch.  Less recognizable models won’t make a clear statement, but will reflect an appropriate level of class and taste.

Some brands to consider

• Oris
• Movado
• Epos
• Low end of Tag Heuer or Baume & Mercier

Baume and Mercier Hampton Milleis $2,190 retail

In senior management but not yet in the highest tier

Budget: $2,500 – 7,500

What you’ll get in this range (assuming you do your homework and stick to respected brands and models):

• Excellent durability
• Good purchase price value (i.e.,  superior materials and workmanship with less price inflation than the next tier, especially if purchased used or through the gray market)
• High grade stainless steel or solid gold (but only on watch case–solid gold watch bands cost much more)
• Good value over time.  You may not get your full purchase price (or more) if you resell a watch bought in this category. However, if you divide the price differential over the years that you’ve had the watch, it is likely to seem like a very cost-effective purchase.
• Often worth something to the next generation
• Recognition as a statement watch with the broadest range of people since many of these brands and models are well known

Some brands to consider

• Cartier
• Ebel
• Omega
• Rolex

Cartier La Dona de Cartier $5,250 retail

In top tier management, especially at a large corporation or law, professional services, or consulting firm

Budget: $7,500 – 20,000; even more for rare or particularly prestigious models

What you’ll get in this range (assuming you do your homework and stick to respected brands and models):

• Most of the attributes of the previous category
• More complex design and perhaps hand-made;  limited production; and/or premium materials
• Possibly a good investment with a resale value that may exceed or surpass your original purchase price if you’ve selected the right brand and model
• Likely to be an heirloom watch, something you will pass on to the next generation
• Perhaps less recognizable to a broad range of people, but more impressive than previous categories to those who are sophisticated and worldly

Some brands to consider

• The higher end of the brands in the previous category (for example, a Cartier Tank with a solid gold watch band)
• Patek Phillipe
• Jaeger-Le Coultre
• And a host of other possibly less recognizable names such as Bregeut, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet

Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Classic $9,200 retail

Where to Buy

You have a number of considerations to weigh when it’s finally time to make your purchase of a statement watch.  Is your primary goal to save money (and if so, how much)? Or is your primary goal to limit risk (and if so, how much)?

Only you can make that decision, but here are some general observations as to the different ways of acquiring a watch (authorized dealer; gray market sellers; used and vintage sellers; and replica sellers) that will help you get started.

Authorized dealers

• An authorized dealer is a watch seller who is authorized to sell premium brands by the manufacturer of those brands.  The seller can be a watch store, a jeweler, or a store owned or licensed by the manufacturer itself.  Authorized dealers often do not sell over the internet due to restrictions from the manufacturers.  However, many can advertise over the internet and take phone or fax orders.

• Pros
  • Often the only way of obtaining a manufacturer’s warranty. Such a warranty will be honored at any other authorized dealer or directly by the manufacturer.
  • The ability to examine and try on various watches, as well as to further educate yourself by talking to someone in the business.
  • The ability to establish a continuing relationship that may be helpful with future purchases and issues with your current watch

• Cons
  • Price. New watches come at a premium price that depreciates immediately after purchase. In addition, authorized dealers generally have limited ability to discount their prices due to the financial commitments they have made to the manufacturer to be authorized in the first place. To get a discount on a popular brand and model, you will have to work at it and even if you are successful, the discount is likely only to be 10-20%.
  • Limited selection.  Due to space limitations, an authorized dealer will often have only certain brands and certain models within those brands. A dealer can always order a model for you, but in that case you may as well explore your own ability to order the watch.
  • Excessive handling of merchandise by other customers or swapping out of parts by dealer to please past customer. The extent to which this is a risk, of course, depends on the reputation of the dealer.

• Ms. Incognita’s view?
  • A dealer feels like the “safe” way to go, but she wonders whether it is truly necessary given the usually consistent reliability of good brands and models.  At this point in her career, she would be more likely to go to a dealer to examine models but would think twice about actually purchasing her statement watch there, except at the very highest budget level.

Gray Market Sellers

• The gray market consists of sellers who are not authorized by the manufacturer. Many of these sellers are very legitimate, selling genuine brands and having a trustworthy reputation for service and reliability.  Most of them sell only over the internet, although some also have a single walk-in store. You can find them simply by doing an internet search of  the type of watch in which you’re interested and then reading about the sellers and the type of business they do.

• Pros
  • Price. Many gray market sellers offer discounts of up to 30 – 60% for new watches in their original packaging. How can they do this? For one thing, their overhead is considerably cheaper than authorized dealers. They also acquire their stock at lower prices. Authorized dealers are often required to make minimum purchases each year from the manufacturer as part of their contract, but this amount can exceed their ability to sell to customers. The excess gets sold at lower prices to the gray market so that the dealer can recoup at least some of its costs.
  • Greater selection and availability.  Because they aren’t constrained by the space limitations of a standing store, gray market sellers often have larger and more varied stock.
  • Less pressure. Because most gray market sellers display and sell their stock over the internet, you can review and revisit what they have without feeling any pressure to buy.

• Cons
  • The lack of a manufacturer’s warranty. However, reputable gray market sellers often provide their own warranties.  Research such things as consumer ratings (via Google or other rating services), warranty terms, and length of time in business to determine if a seller warranty is acceptable.
  • The greater risk that a gray market seller is shifty.  This risk exists because a seller with bad intentions thinks it’s easy to evade unhappy purchasers on the internet.  In general, the same research you would do for a warranty should also help protect you against the risk of buying from a bad seller. You should also confirm before purchase that the serial number of your watch has not been removed, a frequent hallmark of a bad seller who sells inferior or suspiciously obtained products.
  • The inability to inspect watches before purchase.  You can mitigate this risk by first reviewing watches at an authorized dealer and then ensuring the gray market seller is both reputable and has an acceptable return policy.

• Some examples of gray market sellers
  • Please note that Ms. Incognita has not vetted these sellers but has merely listed them as a start for your own exploration.  They appear to have been in business for decades, have good consumer ratings and warranties, and respectable (but seldom generous) return policies.
  • www.prestigetime.com
  • www.authenticwatches.com
  • www.bernardwatch.com This firm seems to have slightly higher prices and a more limited selection than the first two, but receives glowing testimonials as to integrity.

• Ms. Incognita’s view?
  • The combination of consistently reliable watches, highly-rated gray market sellers, and low prices makes buying over the internet much more attractive than it used to be. She has previously bought from authorized dealers but will probably go the gray market route when she buys her next statement watch.

Used or Vintage Sellers

• Used and vintage watches are sold both over the internet and by some authorized dealers and jewelers. In general, some of the same pros and cons apply to both settings.

• Pros
  • Price. You can get an excellent deal on a lightly-used watch due to the substantial depreciation that can occur immediately after the watch was first sold.
  • Uniqueness. In addition, vintage watches can offer the cache of greater character or rarity.

• Cons
  • Condition of watch. You can assess the outside of a used watch, but it’s hard to determine whether it was dropped or otherwise mishandled by the previous owner.  You will want to consider the reputation of the seller, the due diligence it performed when acquiring the watch, and the warranty offered by the seller in determining whether a particular used watch is a good purchase.

• Some examples of used or vintage sellers
  • Once again, Ms. Incognita has not vetted these sellers, but they appear to be respected by consumers.
  • www.bernardwatch.com
  • www.wannabuyawatch.com What a great name!

• Ms. Incognita’s take?
  • Prices can be extremely affordable in this category, and Ms. Incognita loves the retro feel of some of these watches. She feels they could be eye-catching in a good way in the boardroom. She will probably take the plunge and purchase a used or vintage watch sometime in the coming year.

Replica Seller

• Exactly what you think it means. Replica sellers can be found on the internet, and the better ones provide adequately performing watches of decent materials in styles that duplicate or are similar to better-known brands and models.

• Pros
  • Price. A statement watch look for an entry level amount. Replica watches generally sell in the $100 – 300 range.

• Cons
  • Reliability of the seller and quality of the watch.  There is a risk that a replica will end up performing worse than a cheaper department store watch.  You can mitigate this risk by doing some of the same homework you would do on other internet watch sellers.
  • Lack of long-term durability. However, at this price point durability may not be a big concern. You could always buy another one if the first finally gives out.
  • The risk that a truly knowledgeable observer spots that you are wearing a fake. However, if the replica is good enough that risk may be fairly small.
  • The fact that you are benefiting from a possible infringement of the original manufacturer’s rights.  There is probably little legal risk to you, but do you want to support such a venture?

• An example of a replica sellers
  • www.watch-replica.net Ms. Incognita has definitely not vetted this seller.

• Ms. Incognita’s view?
  • Buying a replica seems to be an intriguing option if you’re not yet in the senior management ranks or if you already have a good watch and want to expand your watch wardrobe. The buzz is that replicas are better-made than they used to be. However, Ms. Incognita is personally queasy about both the purchase risks and the possible infringement issues.

That’s it for now on our series on statement watches, but stay tuned for occasional updates.  And if you have any advice or recommended resources, be sure to pass those on via comments on this post or suggestions to me.  Be sure to consider as well some of the excellent observations one of our readers Priya made when commenting on an earlier post.  Ms. Incognita has copied them below in the comments section.

What is the statement watch anyway?  Do I really need to buy one? And if I want to buy one, what do I need to decide ahead of time and what should my budget be?

A lot of Executive Chic readers have been asking these questions.  And several readers have been already sending in suggestions and advice.  Clearly there’s a lot of energy and a certain amount of mystery around this topic, so let’s get the conversation going!

Ms. Incognita will lay out some of the fundamentals of statement watches in her next 2 blog posts.  But all you Executive Chic chicks out there are encouraged to weigh in as well.  This is a subject where opinions can differ. It’s also a subject where some readers have a lot of technical expertise and where even more readers have well-cultivated personal taste.  We’ll all end up a little wiser by contributing our views.

This week’s post covers the following aspects of the topic:

• What is a “statement” watch and why might I want to buy one?
• What are some of the other reasons for buying a watch and what impact do they have in the executive suite?
• If I do decide to buy a statement watch, what factors do I need to take into account in deciding what style or look to buy?

Part Two on statement watches will appear next week and will cover the following questions:

• What should my budget be for a statement watch and what are some good brand options at different budget levels?
• Where can I buy a statement watch and what are the pros and cons of each option?

So just what IS a statement watch anyway?

Well, the phrase really says it all.  The statement watch is the watch that signals to others that you are invested with authority and rank in an organization or that you are ready to play such a role. Think of it as the equivalent of your most authoritative boardroom outfit……..except perhaps even more versatile since you can also wear it in more casual workplace settings to discreetly signal your position.

Why rely on a watch to do this? Why not simply rely on other elements of your professional wardrobe to send this message? Ms. Incognita admits that it took her a while to “get” the value of a watch in making a statement.  Just like many of her senior management sisters, she has a strong pragmatic streak.  If an inexpensive version of something works just as well as a more expensive version, why spend the money, even if you have it? Life’s too short—let’s get on with it and focus instead on our leadership agendas!

However, it turns out our male counterparts actually perceive these things slightly differently.  While perhaps no surprise to us based on our personal experiences, neuro-scientific studies confirm that male created or dominated groups usually have some hierarchal dynamics going on. No matter how much the organization believes it’s egalitarian and collaborative, there is inevitably some form of pecking order that may or may not be related to title and some form of one-upmanship in play, even if that form is mainly jocular.

This dynamic also gets expressed visually.  However, men are seldom as analytical as women when it comes to noting all the various elements of a visual look. For many men, if the overall impression is professional and authoritative, that’s as far as the analysis goes, at least for the purposes of quickly assessing rank.

But there are exceptions to this generality, and those exceptions tend to be gadget-y in nature—one’s car, one’s electronic paraphernalia, and—you guessed it—one’s watch.  Executive men are more likely to recognize prestige watches than prestige clothing, and they frequently check out another man’s watch as a clue to his rank—i.e., as to whether he’s really a player or not. Certain iconic watches make this statement. Their shape and design are easily recognized, just like a Jaguar or BMW. And like those cars, these watches are a way of signaling rank and status in a hierarchy.

The Cartier Tank Francaise

Why would I want to buy a statement watch?

Well, just because this watch-mania may exist, that doesn’t mean that executive women should jump in.  If you truly aren’t that interested in watches, then for heaven’s sake, don’t feel pressured to invest money in a statement piece!  Unlike an insufficiently professional wardrobe, the lack of a statement watch is unlikely to adversely impact your overall image and credibility.

However, while not essential, a statement watch can certainly be a plus—a very effective tool for reinforcing the point that you have arrived or are on track to do so. Over the course of our careers as women in senior management, we will face many complicated challenges in which we will need to prove ourselves. For those of us who want every edge we can get in surmounting those challenges, it’s nice to have the easy, more superficial stuff nailed down. In that sense, the statement watch is the gift you give yourself that keeps on giving—a visual reminder to our male counterparts that we are every bit their equal in the pecking order…..and often more!

The Movado Museum

There may be some value to a statement watch, but what about other reasons for buying a watch?

This is a good question, because it’s important to get clear on your personal motivation for buying a watch before you make your purchase. Too often we buy a watch for one reason (for example, style and fashion) and assume it’s a suitable watch for other reasons (for example, making a statement as to your authority and stature). That assumption is frequently not true. Getting clear on your primary reason for buying a watch will help you make good decisions on all the other factors you need to consider, including budget and brand.

The following are all additional valid reasons for buying a watch, but they may or may not overlap the reasons for buying a statement watch. Decide which reason matters the most to you, and let that control all your other decisions major decisions as you consider what to purchase. Any additional reasons that appeal to you should be factored in only after you have narrowed your selection down to a manageable set of choices.

Investment

Certain high-end watches actually increase in value over time, although many watch experts now believe this is less likely to be true nowadays than in the past.  If the most important factor to you in buying a watch is its long-term investment value, be prepared to spend a significant amount and be sure to research options in advance by visiting respected watch dealers and watch websites.

Generally, a watch bought for investment purposes will also have some cache as a statement watch.  However, because it might be rarer and not immediately recognizable, the statement that it makes may be pretty muted. Don’t expect it to have as much impact on others as a better known watch.

Performance

Well, clearly you want whatever you buy to actually keep time and to do so accurately!  In addition, a lot of ink has been spilled on the subject of advanced performance, including the ability of a watch to withstand extreme conditions and to perform well over time. If you are the performance-driven buyer, you again should be prepared to do your homework and quite likely pay a premium price.

Ms. Incognita’s opinion? The process of manufacturing watches has improved so much over the years that performance is no longer as big an issue. Almost all watches except those that are really cheap will perform well in normal office and social settings.  Performance becomes relevant only if (1) you expect to be wearing your watch in extreme conditions or (2) you want to make a statement in a hard-charging, ultra-competitive culture (investment banking, for example) where your position in the hierarchy might be signaled by the technical complexities of your toys.

Fashion

Trends come and go in watches just as they do in clothes, and many of those trends can be quite attractive and chic. If fashion is your main consideration in buying a watch, be prepared to buy watches more frequently to avoid looking dated. This means either having a big budget, or buying at the low end of the price spectrum.

Be aware that the statement ROI for the fashion-driven buyer is usually pretty small. The more influential management colleagues (board members, CEO, peers) seldom pay attention to watch fashion except to unfavorably notice styles they consider too trendy. Follow watch fashion if it’s personally satisfying, but don’t expect it to give you the professional image boost that you would get from wearing a statement watch.

Personal Expression

Some executive women choose to wear a watch as a unique form of personal expression. Their choices range over a wide spectrum—for example, a man’s version of an old classic; a traditional watch but in a vivid color; or an athletic or technically complex watch. In their attire, they are the picture of professionalism. In their watch, however, they are boldly or subversively signaling, “This is who I really am.”

There is something very appealing about this approach, and it can be a fun way of branding yourself.  Nonetheless, if this is the route for you, be sure you are already broadly respected for your work and abilities so that your key constituencies don’t draw the conclusion that your nonconforming timepiece indicates that you’re a flake. And for the same reason, be sure the rest of your outfit is classically business appropriate.  A personal expression watch should be the equivalent of a sly wink.

The Ebel Classic Wave

Now that I’m finally committed to buying a statement watch, how do I figure out what style to get?

Stainless steel or gold? Metal wristband or leather? Feminine, mannish, or in-between? Simple or elaborate?

No matter what budget level you think is appropriate for your status and income, you are probably spending a little more than you normally do when you buy a statement watch.  And that increases the pressure you feel to make the “right” decision.  Ms. Incognita remained paralyzed for several years before her buying her first statement watch. The selections just seemed too overwhelming, and for every good reason to make one style choice, she could think of an equally good one for making another.

Ms. Incognita is clearly not wired to make your decision for you nor should she even if she wanted to! However, after learning from experience and talking to a few other executive women, she has in fact gathered a few useful tips and observations. These will give you a good foundation as you think through what look will work best for you.

• Versatility is a consideration.  If you’re going to spend some money, you want to be able to be able to wear your watch with a number of different outfits in a number of different settings. Do you favor silver jewelry?  A stainless steel watch may work best for you.  Does your wardrobe generally favor brown and cream tones?  You may want to select a gold watch instead.

• Don’t let wristband concerns aggravate you too much.  If you choose the right model and decide several years later that you prefer metal to leather or prefer a different color of leather, most jewelers can make that change for you for the price of the new band.

• There is also the option of having a wristband in mixed stainless steel and gold tones to increase the versatility of wear. Personally Ms. Incognita is not always a fan of this route since she believes that such watches look a little more casual and sporty than she would like in the boardroom (unless the watch is a clear prestige model).  However, that might not be a concern to you.

• Bang for your buck is another consideration.  For example, your watch may look great in your mainly casual workplace, but does it also look appropriate in your occasionally more formal settings?  If not, you aren’t achieving your full statement watch ROI since the people you want/need to impress will most likely be in those environments.  And think twice about paying extra for attributes that really don’t add anything to the statement watch look. When Ms. Incognita bought her iconic Cartier Tank Francaise some time ago, she got the model in white gold with a black alligator wristband. Very elegant and versatile, but she could have gotten a very similar look for less with the stainless steel version. With the benefit of hindsight, she wonders whether most people even  notice the difference.

• Realize that you are unlikely to find all the style attributes you want in a single watch, so don’t pressure yourself to do so. The smart executive woman has a small collection that carries her through a wide variety of settings. Early in your management career this means one clear statement watch, and then another professional watch or two at a lower price point. As you progress and you get a better sense of your tastes and what work best for you, you may begin to swap out some of your less expensive watches for more upscale models.

Be sure to click on the Comment button to add your own thoughts and questions. And remember to stay tuned for Part 2 of this series which will cover:

• What should my budget be for a statement watch and what are some good brand options at different budget levels?
• Where can I buy a statement watch and what are the pros and cons of each option?

Leopard is a big trend in Fall 2010, but is it a good choice for women executives in large corporations or professional firms? Absolutely! In fact, it’s a classic we all should add to our professional wardrobes over time. Leopard is versatile (coordinating with all sorts of colors, including black, brown, camel, red and even gray this season), has a stylish retro vibe (think Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn and Mad Men), and properly done adds rich interest to an otherwise staid and boring office outfit.

However, it doesn’t take much for leopard to go from sophisticated to just plain tarty, so it’s important to observe a few guidelines when wearing it in a professional setting.

1. Look for quality. There are leopard prints that look authentic and then quite a few that look fake or garish. A good print will have spots in a natural shaded pattern as well as that dark rich tortoiseshell blend of caramel, brown and black that is distinctive of real leopard. Avoid high color contrast in the pattern and non-neutral backgrounds.

An insider tip: It can be an excellent investment to spend the money that is sometimes required to get a quality leopard print. A cheap-looking print may feel like a bargain but generally ends up as a short-term novelty. However, an upscale print will serve you well for years. Ms. Incognita has a fantastic leopard belt ($200) that she wears with multiple outfits, and she foresees still wearing that belt decades from now. Take a look at the picture below.  That’s a significantly better return on investment than cheaper stuff that lacks versatility and shelf-life.

Ms. Incognita's wide calf-hair leopard belt (looks a little shiny in the picture due to glare from flash)

2. Wear only one leopard piece at a time. Leopard has a big visual impact. A little of it looks sophisticated and professional. A lot of it screams “Party time!”—definitely not  authoritative or office-appropriate. You will always be safe if you wear only one leopard piece at a time and keep the rest of your outfit simple.

Here are some great ways of incorporating leopard into your professional wardrobe as well as some items to avoid.

TO BUY

1. Belts. Both professional and versatile, especially when done in calf-skin. A wide belt can enliven a solid color sheath dress or even be used to cinch a solid color coat. A narrower belt can be used for pants and skirts. Some good current examples of both are being done by Anne Klein (http://www.zappos.com/ak-anne-klein-2-3-8-studded-haircalf-inlay-with-lion-logo-rivet-leopard?zfcTest=prodPage2a:1); by Tory Burch (http://www.toryburch.com/toryburch/browse/productDetail.jsp?icProduct=22105726); and, as an investment piece, by Yves St. Laurent (http://www.ysl.com/us/en/onlineBoutique/Women/Belts/Classic/P-Classic-Leopard-Belt.aspx). Ms. Incognita particularly likes this mid-range priced version by belt maker W. Kleinberg, available at Saks: http://www.saksfifthavenue.com/main/ProductDetail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=282574491726261&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524446236794&R=674716041512&P_name=W.+Kleinberg&sid=12B2988CBFEA&bmUID=iIGBwuh.

W. Kleinberg leopard belt at Saks

2. Scarves and mufflers. Silk and other lightweight scarves can fill in the neckline of a blazer for discreet impact. Cashmere and real/faux fur mufflers are both classy and cozy. Here’s a very inexpensive example of the first (http://www.lorisshoes.com/product.asp?lt=d&deptid=0&catid=0&pfid=LDS05813) as well as a fur muffler version (http://www1.bloomingdales.com/catalog/product/index.ognc?ID=494848&cm_mmc=LINKSHARE-_-n-_-n-_-n&LinkshareID=Hy3bqNL2jtQ-icMPSqlz3lUkWHf4VinM8g.)

Adrienne Landau Leopard-Print Fur Scarf at Bloomingdale's

3. Silk blouses and knit tops under a jacket or structured cardigan. This is a great office-to-dinner option. Under a jacket, blouses and tops add interest but remain office appropriate. After work, lose the jacket and add gold accessories for an elegant evening look. A lot of the classy versions are already sold out, but new ones should be available as the fall progresses. However, the picture below provides an example of how to do the look using a previous season’s blouse from Ms. Incognita’s closet. Other options that are available now include a gray version at Net-a-porter (http://www.net-a-porter.com/am/product/96372?cm_mmc=LinkshareUS-_-ProductFeed-_-LAgence-_-Tops&siteID=J84DHJLQkR4-9WVNWIPpXfTFhVxkvkWs4g), a well-priced thin cardigan at Talbots that you could wear back-to-front under a jacket in the office and on its own off-hours (http://www.talbots.com/online/browse/product_details.jsp?id=prdi25372&mode=search&backurl=%2Fonline%2Fsearch%2FsearchResults.jsp%3Fquestion%3Dleopard%26trail%3DSRCH%253Aleopard%26pageNum%3D0%26addFacet%3D%26removeFacet%3D) , and a very inexpensive t-shirt at Kohl’s that could work under a jacket in a casual workplace (http://www.kohls.com/kohlsStore/womens/tops/knittops/34sleeve/PRD~615783/Chaps+Modern+Traveler+Leopard+Top.jsp?prtID=pfx&src=k108283&cm_mmc=Performics-_-Affiliate-_-ShopStyle.com-_-Primary).  If you are having problems finding an appropriate version for you be sure to follow Ms Incognita on Twitter for updates on what’s out there.

Leopard blouse and jacket from Ms. Incognita's closet

TO CONSIDER

1. Gloves and hats. Ms. Incognita loves the look but has also seen examples where the outfit goes over the top. Use good judgment here, and remember the one item at a time rule.

2. Flat shoes or sneakers for travel. Ms. Incognita used to travel on business between the US and Europe once a month for years. How to remain stylish, professional, and comfortable all at the same time on those long overnight trans-Atlantic flights? Black knit separates, sunglasses, and leopard sneakers from DKNY! Boy, does Ms Incognita miss those sneakers–she wore them to shreds.

TO AVOID (at least in an office setting)

1. Major wardrobe pieces. Unless you’re in design or some other fashion-forward business, leopard jackets, skirts, or coats take center stage and distract from the overall professional image you’re trying to cultivate. The only exception might be the addition of discreet leopard trim to an otherwise solid-color piece.

2. Heeled shoes. High-heeled leopard shoes are beautiful with a black sheath dress—Ms. Incognita owns a pair herself. However, leopard shoes are generally too distracting in the executive suite (unless the leopard is limited to a bit of trim). The focus should be on your ideas and energy, not on your alluring footwear! Wear more office-appropriate shoes during the day and trade them out for your leopard heels if you’re going on the town that night.

The fashion cycles can be pretty daunting for executive women. Some seasons are disasters—everything is office-inappropriate and it’s impossible to find even good basics.

And then, thank heaven, there are seasons like Fall 2010! After swings through girly, Goth, and lately the fashion industry’s skewed view of what people want in a recession (drab colors and cheap fabrics?!), the style pendulum has settled this fall on beautiful classics in great quality fabrics kept fresh and current with interesting accents and cuts. The challenge this season for executive women won’t be limited selection. Instead, it will be how to take advantage of the opportunity to replenish our wardrobes without going overboard.

Here are the top 4 trends for executive women to consider as they shop this season, along with a handful of other welcome trends that work well in an executive wardrobe. This should help get you oriented as you head into the Labor Day weekend. Stay tuned for later posts with more details on individual trends, along with links to good examples and where you can purchase them.

The Big Four for Fall

1. The return of tailored minimalism. While fall is typically a great season for the tailored separates that are the staples of an executive woman’s wardrobe, Fall 2010 has an outstanding selection. Think Ralph Lauren or Calvin Klein at their best, and then multiply that through numerous designers at numerous price points. Consider adding a missing classic to your closet–for example, a camel coat or a perfect gray blazer. Or take a good look at the classics that you have already. Is it time to replace any or invest in an upgrade? If so, do it now. Who knows when a season like this with so many good choices will roll around next?

2. A wide selection of flattering neutrals. Camel and gray are the “big” colors this fall, and they have rarely looked so good. In part, this is because of stylish accents (see below) that take them from simply ho-hum to suddenly luxe or edgy. But it’s also because there’s a wide choice of shades and textures within each color. With a selection that broad, you’re sure to find a version that flatters you. For example, Ms. Incognita can looked washed out and blah in plain camel or gray. But with versions also available in warm tones and mélanges (mixed shades), there are plenty of options that will enhance rather than drain a pale complexion. How do you figure out the right shade for you? At www.jillkirshcolor.com, you can order a book of swatches in all the colors that complement your coloring. For those of us who are colored-challenged, it’s astonishing what a difference the right version of a shade can make to our overall appearance

3. Accents with pizzazz. It can be hard to express your stylish side in your executive wardrobe. Either the pace of your job keeps you too distracted to wear anything but a basic uniform or you run the risk of looking office-inappropriate. This season, however, offers fresh versions of classic accents. Acquire a few of these for a quick, cost-effective, and workplace-safe way of taking your look from tired to polished. Here are a few of the biggest trends in aceents:

• Leopard and other animal prints. It may sound strange to call leopard a classic, but done the right way leopard (and other animal prints) look both timeless and luxe. The trick to getting it right in the executive suite is to use it only as an accent in your outfit and to make sure the print doesn’t look like a cheap knock-off. Consider adding a leopard belt to black, brown, camel, or even gray outfit. Or a silky blouse in a discreet leopard print under a solid colored jacket or cardigan.
• Animal-embossed leather accessories. We’re talking leather accessories such as belts, shoes, and handbags in crocodile, alligator, and lizard embossed patterns. (The real thing is far too expensive and species-threatening for Ms. Incognita.) When styles become minimal and colors basic, texture and pattern can keep your look from becoming too boring.
• Leather skirts and other pieces. Yes, Ms. Incognita realizes that leather clothing might sound too edgy for some work places! But many versions this season are done in classic cuts. Worn with other less edgy pieces, they can create a retro fall look. Consider a camel suede skirt under a classic tan herringbone or plaid jacket. Or for a casual workplace, a black or brown leather skirt under a chunky knit sweater. Or a camel suede shirt tucked into belted slacks and accented with gold jewelry.

4. Coats with class. No surprise to see coats in the fall, but this season provides some great executive options beyond the ever-present black and gray. One direction to take is the classic camel-hair coat. There are a gazillion versions, and you can freshen the look each season by wearing accessories such as scarves, gloves, and belts in the accent colors and textures of the moment. An altogether different direction this fall are coats in deep rich colors such as aubergine, forest green, dark teal, and burnt orange. Choose the right color for your coloring (see above) and your complexion will light up and glow during the gray and dreary days of winter.

Other welcome trends

1. The return of flats and kitten heels. Those of us who are road warriors or simply have tired feet are elated! Ms. Incognita has found some great chic but comfortable selections and will share those in a later post.

2. Smaller purses and handbags. The big statement handbag is seldom a practical option for the executive woman on-the-go. But while in the name of efficiency we may limit what we tote around to a briefcase or computer bag, we still find ourselves in situations (a lunch or dinner meeting for example) where we need our “stuff” but don’t want to bring the briefcase. In those situations, the small purse or clutch is a godsend. And after years of waiting, there’s finally a great selection this fall. Look for clutches and small streamlined shoulder bags without a lot clutter. Tuck one into a briefcase or your carry-on, and you can pull it out as needed.

3. Upscale versions of classic separates by low-cost brands. Gap is advertising a premium black pant selection and variety of white tops in different designs. Talbots is also claiming a return to quality. Ms. Incognita hasn’t checked these claims out yet, but it sounds like good news. After several years of even some upscale labels cheating on the quality of their fabrics and workmanship in order to reduce their costs in a challenging economy, it would be great to see the return of value at a relatively low price point.

4. Military chic. OK, OK…..Ms. Incognita was not a fan of the military trend when it showed up this spring. However, spring’s version was more fatigues and utilitarian in spirit. Fall’s version is more sharply tailored. Think officer class—a much more appropriate feel at the executive level. This trend is showing up in some cool coats and jackets.

5. Fedoras and other menswear hats. Those great emancipated dames like Katherine Hepburn in movies of the 30’s and 40’s signaled they were every bit the equal of the men around them by appropriating their hat styles. If you like wearing hats, there are some good selections around this season, and it’s a fun but office-appropriate way of expressing your creativity.

Ladies, start your engines!  The Spring-Summer 2010 sales have already started, and Ms Incognita has some great resources for you.  If you move into action right now, you’ll be able to add some designer items to your executive wardrobe at a fraction of their original cost.

While we’re over a week into the sale season, there are still many incredible deals out there.  The key to success (i.e., a quality piece in your size at a great price) is to move quickly.  The selection will start getting sparse in the coming weeks.  Seriously consider spending a few hours on the hunt this weekend or next week.  Chances are you’ll be very glad you did.

Here are 5 fantastic Internet resources for professional clothing as well as a wonderful sale of custom couture at a designer’s studio in NYC if you happen to live there or travel that way on business.  (Why the emphasis on the Internet?  Check out the reasons at the end of this blog post.)

YOOX

Some Internet sites brag about their name designer duds at low prices, but often their selection is small and the items appear to be discounted because the material or construction is cheap. For example, this sometimes (although not always) appears to be the case at Gilt.com.  Other sites such as Net-a-porter.com do in fact have truly top-end designer clothes.  However, their selection tends to be more fashion-forward than corporate, and by the time the clothes are on sale, the supply can be very limited.

But then there’s YOOX.com.  YOOX is a somewhat unassuming looking site that carries a HUGE selection of attire by famous designers, along with clothes from high quality brands that are better known in Europe than they are in the US. Even outside of sale season, you always can find beautiful pieces for your wardrobe at reasonable prices.  But during sale season, the bargains are astonishing. And the selection on YOOX is enormous.  In the blazer section of the sale area alone, there are 2,600 blazers!

How good are the bargains?  Last year, Ms. Incognita scored a Giorgio Armani forest green boucle sheath for $350 and a beautiful Michael Kors angora/wool blend jacket in a rich tobacco color for $118!  Last week, Ms Incognita bought another Michael Kors blazer—this time in ivory twill—for $400.  Pricier than last year, but still a steal given the original price and the high level of quality.

Be aware that the site can be stingy with alternative views and desciptions of items.  And Ms Incognita was extremely irritated by the YOOX security requirement that you e-mail them a scanned copy of your credit card if you are a first time buyer at the site. (Ms Incognita argued with YOOX and suggested several alternatives, but to no avail. According to YOOX, the copy you send them is destroyed once the card is verified.)  However, there appear to have been no adverse consequences from sending them this copy, and the spectacular bargains have gone a long way in calming Ms Incognita down.

The Big Three: Nordstrom, Saks and Neiman Marcus

All three of these major retailers have sales in progress at their stores.  If there’s one nearby, you can always check what’s on offer.  However, there can be definite advantages to skipping the stores and shopping instead on their websites.  Often, the selection of business appropriate attire is more extensive.  And if you register at each site, you’ll get advanced notice of sales and further markdowns during the sales.  This can make a world of difference. That Armani or Theory jacket might be too pricy for you at the beginning of the sale season, but if a further markdown is taken, it may suddenly become affordable.  It’s pretty cool to be able to scoop it up before anyone else does, all without leaving your office or home.

Most of the time, shipping is free from these retailers, so long as you enter the correct promotion code when you’re checking out.  The sites usually make this easy for you by printing the promotion code at the top of each page.

Ralph Lauren

What’s not to love above this brand?  The designs so often achieve that balance between stylish flair and retro that works so well in the professional world.  You can now find a great selection of discounted jackets, dresses, slacks and other professional attire at www.ralphlauren.com.  Remember the Blue Label Heidi jacket Ms Incognita cited in the blog post entitled Spring 2010 Trend: Khaki and Utilitarian?  That same jacket, as well as many others, is now on sale at the site.

Dara Lamb

Dara is a designer of beautiful custom-made clothing, and her showroom is located at 37 W. 57^th Street in NYC.  Custom clothing can often be a very expensive option, but the fit and quality is fantastic, you have the freedom to get exactly what you want, and if you chose classic pieces, they will be worn and treasured forever.  If you are an executive at the very top of a large organization (or aspiring to be) or find it difficult to get a good fit with off-the-rack clothing, you will definitely want to consider adding custom pieces to your wardrobe.

Ms Incognita will write more about Dara and things to consider when working with a custom designer in a later post.  However, for the purpose of this article, the important thing to know is that Dara is now having a sale on custom couture at incredible discounts to make room in her showroom for the incoming fall line.

You can check out Dara’s site at www.daralamb.com for general information on her and her clothes.  If you’d like more information on the sale, just send a request to msincognita@executivechic.com and I’ll forward you the sale notice.  If you do visit Dara, please mention that Ms. Incognita recommended her.  We’ve had many conversations about professional attire for women, and she’ll get a kick out of the connection.  Please note I don’t get a commission or discount for recommending her.  I learned about Dara from a very good friend who also happens to be a CEO, and just want to pass on the favor!

Internet shopping or going to the store?

For Ms. Incognita, this is a no-brainer. Internet shopping is the savior of the busy professional woman.  Don’t get me wrong—there can be some advantages to shopping in-person, the biggest of which is the ability to try something on.  But there are also some major disadvantages during sale season.  The legions of crammed sale racks can be overwhelming, the ladies of leisure generally have gotten to the good stuff before we can find the time to get to the store, and the pressure to get in and out can lead you, like Ms Incognita, to make some spectacularly bad decisions.

On the other hand, when you shop on the Internet you can do it stress-free in your bathrobe at 10:00 at night (which regrettably is often the only free time an executive woman has).  You also enjoy (a) priority over other purchasers if you have signed up for advance notice of sales, (b) special Internet only discounts (again if you have registered at the site), (c) a larger selection than is available at the stores, (d) the space to consider whether you really want an item without pressure from a sales person, and (d) a faster total shopping experience.

Of course, there are some challenges to shopping mainly on the Internet. However, Ms Incognita has the following tips to minimize hassles:

1. Start keeping a written record of your size in particular designers.  This can vary from designer to designer so it’s helpful to keep track.
2. If you are wavering between two sizes, order two.  The minimal cost of returning the item that doesn’t fit is more than outweighed by the efficiency in achieving certainty. Remember—you’re ordering through the Internet to save time. You don’t want to drag out the experience by having to re-order something if the size is wrong.
3. Keep a supply of strong reinforced packing tape on hand.  Most internet retailers make returns easy by including preprinted and prepaid UPS or US Post Office return labels in the original package or by allowing you to print out these labels from their sites.  However, you will have to tape up the package yourself, and that tape may need to be strong if the package is slightly beaten up.

Here’s hoping you have a fun, fast, and totally successful shopping experience during this sale season.  Be sure to let us know if you see any other great sales of business appropriate attire out there, and if you score any particularly incredible deals, feel free to brag!

As the temperatures start rising, it becomes more and more complicated for Ms Incognita to decide what to wear throughout a work day. Jacket, top, and pants? Fine in the office, but too warm in the car or when walking around the city between appointments. And far too buttoned up if you’re meeting friends or attending a casual summer work event at the end of the day. Sure, you could take the jacket off, but somehow that always ends up looking like half an outfit—not the altogether polished look we expect of senior level execs.

Once Ms Incognita moved from the NYC area to a warm weather climate, however, she found a population of executive women who had mastered the art of summer workplace dressing. And one of the most versatile pieces in their wardrobes is the classic sheath dress. Worn with a jacket or a cardigan, a sheath looks professional and keeps you warm in air-conditioned offices and restaurants. And worn on its own, a sheath can keep you cool and stylish in both casual and formal settings, depending on its material and your accessories.

Here are a few thoughts on how to pull off the look, along with some recommendations as to where to find good sheath options right now.

Cut

The classic sheath shape—sleeveless and somewhat fitted to the body, but neither too tight nor too loose—is flattering to quite a few figures. If yours isn’t one of them, however, some of the following variations might work.

Arms in need of toning? Well, you know from “The Great Jacket Debate” post that Ms Incognita generally recommends keeping your jacket on in the office anyway! However, when you’re not wearing a jacket, try a sheath with short or three-quarter sleeves. Sheaths also come with full sleeves, but can look a little dowdy in this version unless the overall cut of the dress is exquisite. Consider having your tailor shorten full length sleeves to three-quarters to make your dress much more versatile.

Somewhat pear-shaped? Look for a sheath that flares out slightly below the waist and is not too tightly fitted on top.

More of an apple? Look for a sheath with a raised waist line (somewhere between a empire and your true waist) and a straight (not fitted) skirt. This cut is also good for pear shapes. Be wary of a true empire line. It can often exacerbate the very figure challenge you’re trying to minimize, and even when it doesn’t, it’s a look that’s more appropriate outside a corporate office.

Color

Every professional woman should have a black or dark-colored (navy, charcoal, etc) sheath dress. You can dress it up or down endlessly so that it works in both formal and casual settings, and it will probably take you more places than any other single item in your wardrobe.

Beyond that, sheath dresses come in all sorts of solid colors and prints. Ms Incognita tends to favor solids for the versatility factor. It’s much easier to pair various patterned jackets, cardigans, and/or accessories with a solid color (and have multiple outfits from the same dress) than to try that with a patterned sheath. But if you’re fashion savvy and up for that challenge, I salute you!

Fabric

Sheaths come in a variety of appropriate fabrics—silks, crepes, knits, boucles, cottons, and even denim for casual settings—giving you options that suit your climate, office setting, and figure type. Many of the best will contain some small percentage of elastene for give and resiliency.

Ms Incognita can think of only two cautions in the fabric department. First, if the fabric is lightweight, lining can be an advantage, not only to avoid the see-through effect but to limit wrinkling if you’re in and out of chairs, cars and planes during the day. And think twice about linen sheaths. They look beautiful and polished on the hanger but often wrinkled and weary after a few hours. A linen blend jacket can hold up during the day if handled well, but linen dresses, pants and skirts? Only if you avoid sitting down!

What’s available right now

While classics such as the sheath dress are available each year, some years are better than others in offering a wide variety of cut, colors, and fabrics. Unfortunately, one of those times was last year, not this.

Current offerings appear to be more limited, and unfortunately this seems especially true for color and cut at the lower price points. However, the classic black sheath is available in all price ranges, and other options also exist if you look hard enough. Also, if you want to build your sheath wardrobe, be patient and have a plan of action for years in which the sheath is especially popular. Ms Incognita scooped up several in different colors, fabrics and styles last year, all at very good prices. Seemed a little excessive at the time, but now that pickings are slim, she’s very glad she took the plunge.

Here’s a sampling of what’s available online right now…….

Saks (www.saksfifthavenue.com)

Not too much available at the lower price points, but some expensive options that may be worth the investment given the style and workmanship.

Akris Punto: A fashion forward brown zip-front sheath ($795) that would look fantastic under a light-weight tweed jacket. Available for preorder in limited sizing.

Armani Collezione: A windowpane light wool flannel sheath ($1,165). A classic and timeless look, available for preorder.

Ralph Lauren Black Label: A gray mélange cap-sleeved sheath with leopard belt ($1,098). Take a look—very professional and yet distinctive. Also available for preorder.

St. John: A sleeveless black sheath in a black textured wool ($795). The basic go-to style and St. John always travels well.

Weekend Max Mara: A lined cotton red sheath at a decent price from a good label ($260).

Nordstrom (www.nordstrom.com)

Tahari has some bargains. There’s a black crepe sheath with a bolero jacket for $188 (both could pair with other items in your wardrobe for multiple outfits), and a royal blue cotton sheath with bow detailing for $118.

Lafayette 148 (www.lafayette148.com)

Lafayette is always a good source for basics in a variety of colors and sizes, including petites. This year they offer a belted jodhpur cloth (cotton) stretch sheath in a variety of colors as well as a classic black stretch wool sheath (lined) for $398. Also take a look at their boucle confection wing collar jacket in a three-quarter sleeve. It comes in a variety of bright colors, some on sale. Might give a great pop of color to a black sheath.

Ann Taylor (www.anntaylor.com)

Could well be the mother lode this year for inexpensive sleeveless sheath dresses in a variety of colors, prints, and fabrics, all under $175. In recent years, the quality of fabric and workmanship seems to have declined at Ann Taylor. However, management has declared they are upgrading, so you may find some office appropriate versions of the sheath here.

For us road warriors, traveling from warmer to cool climates in the spring and the fall can be a wardrobe challenge. What can you bring that (1) keeps you comfortable warm at your destination, (2) doesn’t add packing bulk, (3) doesn’t get crumpled up and wrinkled in the overhead bins of a plane, and (4) looks appropriately professional and stylish?

It’s even more complicated when you’re hopping from city to city rather than doing a simple round trip. And nowadays, this isn’t just a spring and fall issue. With climate patterns becoming so unpredictable, we now have to be attuned to weather differences throughout the year. (NYC heat waves in January? San Francisco cold fronts in July?)

It took Ms Incognita a while, but she finally hit on a strategy that works for her—-a mid-weight muffler or scarf and a pair of lined leather gloves. They take up almost no room in your carry-on or briefcase. And the combination is incredibly warm if you’re already wearing a business jacket and pants. So long as the temperature isn’t consistently in the 30’s, the winds aren’t gale force, and you don’t plan on walking more than 10-15 blocks, you will be quite comfortable.

Even in normally warm seasons like spring, the cashmere scarf comes in handy. Ms Incognita was seeing clients in NYC and Pennsylvania last week, and the morning temperatures were in the 40’s before rising quickly during the day. The muffler was in use in the mornings and back in the briefcase by lunch. Much easier than toting a a light coat around!

A cashmere muffler isn’t just limited to keeping your neck warm. Draped around the shoulders it’s a godsend for overly chilly airplane cabins and conference halls. And when it unexpectedly starts snowing or the weather is too blustery for hats, you can wrap it around your head and neck like a cowl to keep both warm and relatively dry.

Here are a few of the lessons Ms Incognita has learned about fabric, color, and shopping while working this strategy.

Fabric

Cashmere is Ms Incognita’s preferred fabric—heavy enough to be warm, light enough to be breathable and packable, soft enough not to be scratchy, and elegant enough to be professional. You might want to consider a somewhat fluffy weave. These are more airy than a flat weave in spring temperatures but still quite warm enough when the weather is colder.

Also think about fabrics that could work for evening or event dressing in cooler climes. Rather than a coat, could you use long gloves and an elegant muffler or shawl in cashmere, silk, or a fine wool weave? It can be a very attractive look, still keep you sufficiently warm during the generally short period between car and event location, and again allows you to travel light.

Colors

Since Ms Incognita has a lot of black and browns in her professional wardrobe, she also has mufflers and gloves in both colors. Solid colors generally are more vesatile than patterns. You don’t have to invest a lot of time in figuring out what patterns work well with what you’re already wearing.

However, it finally dawned on Ms Incognita that this look can go from simply appropriate to chic by adding a shot of color. A deep mallard blue works with black outfits, and a leaf green works with the brown outfits. And both play well against Ms Incognita’s red hair. This new approach is getting the fashion equivalent of a gold star—unsolicited compliments from other executive women on the streets of NYC—so Ms Incognita thinks she’s finally on to something!

Shopping

Ms Incognita has an unfortunate track record of forgetting to stock up on basic essentials and then having to scramble to get something (like a muffler) that isn’t her first choice, just because she needs it now. A more proactive approach definitely makes life smoother. A good strategy is to survey your closet at the beginning of the fall season, figure out what mufflers and gloves combos you don’t have or need to replace, and just go to a website with a big selection like Nordstrom’s to get everything you need. Over and done with in 30 minutes, and you’ll be prepared for at least several seasons for whatever setting you find yourself in.

Another option is to go online in January and February to fill out your muffler and glove wardrobe. The sale prices kick in then, and although selection may be more limited, you still may find exactly what you need.

“The right to bare arms—Michelle Obama does it, but so what? It just seems wrong to wear sleeveless to the office or to take off one’s jacket if a sleeveless top is underneath.”

What a smart observation from one of our professional women readers! (She also suggested a lot of other fun topics for us to discuss.) Jackets are pretty much the norm for senior management women, but that doesn’t mean that the norm isn’t regularly challenged. The great jacket debate has been going on for decades. Is a jacket always essential? When is it appropriate to take it off? And are there situations (plant visits, casual outings) when a jacket is a liability to your image?

Ms Incognita always likes to weigh in on this debate by first citing a study that was done in the mid-90s when the popularity of casual workplaces was so great that more formally attired workplaces were the subject of ridicule.

In the study, a mixed population of men and women were shown a man and a woman — both wearing jackets – and asked to guess which one was the boss. Approximately 50% of the women and 50% of the men said the woman was the boss. In other words, when both were wearing jackets and nothing else was known about them, the woman was equal to the man in perceived authority.

The study participants were then shown a picture of another man and woman. This time, both were dressed in appropriate business casual clothing. The participants were asked the same question: Which person do you think is the boss? Almost all participants replied that the man was the boss. In other words, without a visible symbol, the unknown woman was perceived as lacking authority. A disturbing conclusion, but an important reminder that for both men and women power is conveyed not just by titles or business actions but also an array of other impressions.

At the time this study first came out, Ms Incognita was in her first senior executive role in a company with an otherwise all male management team and a casual workplace environment. She was often good-naturedly teased by her female colleagues for consistently wearing jackets. Just like our reader observes, however, it just didn’t feel right to ditch the jacket. Ms Incognita had set her sights on even larger roles, and that meant ensuring she was always perceived as leadership material. Sure, a jacket is only a symbol and doesn’t say anything about your actual abilities. But with the many challenges we face as women executives to be taken seriously, why not simply create the right overall impression so you can then move on to the more challenging and substantive stuff? Who wants to be wasting valuable time having to assert repeatedly, “Yes, I actually am your peer (or boss).”

Is this study still valid today? Ms Incognita can only offer some anecdotal evidence based on her current experience in working with senior leadership teams. The women who are seen as on the fast track consistently wear jackets. The women who are performing well but spend most of their time in the workplace dressed casually are subject to subtle questions. You know the kind—“She’s doing great, but does she really have what it takes to play a larger role? I’m not so sure yet.” Attire is seldom mentioned, but the coincidence is striking.

Now are there some exceptions to this rule? Yes, but Ms Incognita suspects they are fewer than you might expect. Here are some situations where women executives are sometimes urged to go jacket-less.

1. A normal day at a normal workplace. Because quite a few men remove their jackets for comfort at the office, some women believe they should be able to as well, so long as they don’t have an important meeting. I suppose if you feel absolutely confident that your authority is already clear, then removing your jacket is OK. However, my personal experience is that you never know when your CEO, a board member, or a key client may be onsite and run into you. I’ve had too many surprise visits to take that risk. If you do want to make a practice of taking off your jacket, be sure to wear a long or ¾ sleeved top underneath. Sleeveless or even short-sleeved is too casual and will impact the credibility of your image.
2. A normal day at a casual workplace. The argument here is that if a woman’s image will be negatively affected by wearing a jacket. You especially hear this in the tech companies. I think the mistake here is to equate teasing with negative impact. Yes, you will definitely be teased, but I’ve never seen a negative impact so long as you yourself respond with humor. Instead, no matter what the company itself says, the same rule seems to apply—women who are dressed more authoritatively tend to be viewed as more authoritative. The trick in a casual workplace is to wear more informal jackets. See below for some suggestions as how to handle this.
3. A casual offsite meeting or a fun company outing. Unless an offsite meeting is taking place in a wilderness setting, I think the casual jacket suggestions below are the appropriate way to go. A company picnic or other fun outing is another story. There you have more freedom to appear casual. However, you don’t want to go too far down that road. A light cardigan or a polo shirt conveys a relaxed approachability but still looks business appropriate.
4. A plant or remote location visit.  The best approach here is to do a little research in advance and decide what impression you want to create.  If it’s important to seem approachable and to connect, follow the dress code of the location.  If it’s important to signal authority, then consider some of the casual jacket options below.
5. A fashion or design workplace. This is about the only setting where Ms Incognita thinks women executives can get away without wearing a jacket or jacket substitute regularly. In these workplaces, it’s just as important to convey your design credibility in your attire as it is to convey your authority. However, even if a jacket isn’t necessary, the general principle behind a jacket probably still applies. In other words, when you want to project authority in your image, dress more formally or conservatively.

For those times when you want to look more casual but still need to look authoritative, consider some of the following options:

• Rolling up your jacket sleeves. This can actually look pretty chic.
• Wearing a knit jacket. This can be much more comfortable than a structured jacket, and it’s easier to push up the sleeves to look even more casual.
• Wearing a cardigan. Just make sure it’s not too lightweight or shapeless. Good bets include those in heavier knits, a more structured shape (such as double-breasted), or with embellishments such as formal buttons.
• Wearing a leather, suede, or even denim jacket. For those workplaces where it helps to be casual but also stylish, these jackets work well. They now come in a variety of styles, colors, and sleeve lengths, and many of these options can add to the overall casual effect.

And finally, I haven’t forgotten how our intrepid reader kicked off this conversation. What about Michelle Obama? She looks great in those sleeveless sheaths (a design which, by the way, I think is a fantastic option in the executive woman’s wardrobe) and is often photographed without a jacket. Nothing wrong with that from my point of view, but let’s think why we might be reacting positively to that.  I suspect it’s because she is looking to balance the natural leadership and authority of her role with something else entirely—stylish accessibility and warmth. There’s a lot of evidence that that is what the general public wants from First Ladies. In contrast, consider the reaction to Hillary Clinton in her first term as First Lady.  It was pretty clear that she wanted to make a statement about her authority and leadership, something that didn’t go over well with the general public And what did she wear while doing this? Jackets! The moral of the story? Jackets and women authority figures are inextricably linked.

Regardless of my personal opinion, however, I’m sure the great jacket debate will continue to wage on, however! I’d love to hear your opinions–anyone have a different point of view?

Part of the fun in writing this blog is being able to say, “What the heck were they thinking?!” That’s certainly true of one big Spring 2010 trend called a variety of names—khaki, utilitarian, fatigue, military, trekker, etc.

If people are struggling to name and define a trend, that’s a good sign that (1) it doesn’t have legs and (2) it’s unlikely to offer many professional wardrobe options. That’s certainly true of the khaki and utilitarian trend, but there are still a few ways of getting the vibe while looking polished and professional. The trick is to deconstruct the trend as it’s now appearing in fashion magazines into its different elements. You can then use one or two of those elements in your outfits.

So what are some of the key elements in the khaki and utilitarian trend?

Vibe: From blue collar to military to colonial “out-of-Africa”
Colors: Khaki, from pale to dark; tan; olive green; and muddy neutrals
Embellishment: Pleated patch pockets; trench belt; epaulettes; utilitarian metal buttons or sippers; leather trim

Clearly adapting all of the elements of this trend won’t work at the most senior levels of large companies. However, here are a few ways in which you might incorporate a single element or two and still have clothes that will last for more than one season.

1. A tan jacket. For example, Ralph Lauren Blue Label (in the Ralph Lauren stores and at Saks) has a lovely well-cut silk/linen tweed. To avoid looking too workman-like, consider pairing a tan jacket with a blouse or scarf in a beige/rose floral print (as Ralph Lauren is doing) or with a leopard print blouse.
2. A jacket with leather trim. For example, Saks has a Tahari pale tweed jacket with light tan leather lapels and trim. And Ralph Lauren Blue Label has a khaki linen twill jacket with leather shoulder pads which looks both classic and stylish and certainly far from drab.
3. A lightweight cropped trench coat. Frankly, I think this is one of the best styles of the season, even though it’s outer, not office, wear. A cropped trench is useful, it’s not overwhelming in the way that full length trench coats can be, and very spring-like. And of course a lot of the design elements are consistent with the khaki/utilitarian trend.
4. A belt or handbag. This is a very safe way to be on trend without looking too extreme. There is a wide array of belts and handbags in linen or canvas with brown leather trim. Most are very classic in appearance (such as a tote offered by Tumi) and very office appropriate, but still echo the khaki/utilitarian theme this spring.